The resulting Sanctuary of Apollo reached the height of its power between the sixth and the fourth centuries BC. This idyllic ensemble of whitewashed houses and characteristic domes is delicately draped over a steep slope at the top of a cliff. To this day, the street feels medieval, with carved reliefs that show off that original national pride. And, for many, it's their Greek isle dream come true. Rick: So she would babble and the priests would say this is wisdom from the gods. All the parts were there in geometrical, if not biological perfection. A tidy embankment is so pretty they call it "Little Venice." From there we side-trip to the oracle of Delphi and then cruise from Athens' port of Piraeus to the island of Hydra. The Kameni Islands are actually made of lava rock. Enjoying the island with a local guide and then taking a short break to enjoy a cliffside bar — filled with happy travelers from around the world — is a reminder that even if on a cruise, you can exercise your independence and spark some great travel moments. I joked with Colin that it’s easy to be an impressive guide in Greece, because brilliance is relative and rare is the American tourists who has a clue about Greek history. After the noise of Athens, Hydra's traffic-free tranquility is a delight. Or, the Luther program is available free at Youtube–search rick steves luther.) The word Hellenistic refers to Greek culture after its political conquest. Prices are high, and, in season, the island is crammed full of vacationers. So, they honored Helios by building a colossal statue. But that makes it a quiet, uncrowded spot — nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis — to wander and get a feel for the ancients. No individual features — everything was idealized. We'll tour ancient ruins, trace the vestiges of the Crusaders, sample rustic cuisine, savor classic Greek-island views, and compare beaches — from the ultimate party beach to idyllic quiet hideaways. Whether from Spain, France, or Germany, each group built its own headquarters here to feel like home. We're riding a Flying Dolphin — one of the fleet of speedy hydrofoils that zip from Athens to the islands, and from island to island. The high-spirited detail is astonishing, right down to the horse's dramatic head, and the concerned look on the young jockey's face. For meals, you can sit out on the shady covered side terrace above the harbor — check the chalkboard to see what's freshest today. And it's hard to imagine having had more Greek island fun in a few days than what we just experienced. There were fine mosaics — like this one of the god Dionysus riding a panther. I like being here at the end of the day — with the tourists gone, cheers of the long-gone crowds still ringing in the cool mountain air, and the starting block all mine. In the 1960s, the island became a favorite retreat for artists and writers, who still draw inspiration from its idyllic surroundings. And we'll connect it all by cruise ship, enjoying fun on board as we sail. Greece Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . While we could fly or take a local ferry, this time our mode of transportation is a cruise ship. It's especially worth visiting if you're traveling beyond Athens, because it displays artifacts found all around Greece, including Mycenae, Epidavros, Santorini, and Olympia — and the treasures displayed here are generally better than those remaining at the sites themselves. It was the site of the oracle of Apollo, god of the sun. While pricey, if two couples split the cost, enjoying the services of a private guide can cost about the same as the cruise line's bus tour. You can also watch Greek sculpture evolve, from prehistoric Barbie dolls, to stiff Egyptian-style, to the David-like balance of the Golden Age, to wet T-shirt, buckin'-bronco Hellenistic, and finally, to the influence of the Romans. And, with a little luck, you can make a friend and be invited in — or, in this case — up onto the roof — for a pleasant chat and a cup of strong Greek coffee. The worst lines are caused by the bottleneck of people trying to squeeze into the site through the Propylaea gate. Two hundred years ago, Athens was just a small town surrounded by big ruins, sitting on lots of history. About a century before Christ, Delos was devastated by a terrible war. Statues looked more lifelike. Island getaways are fun, but the real heart of Greece is found in the Peloponnese Peninsula. Should I get Rick's Pocket Athens guide in addition to this Greece guidebook? Little survives from the classical agora. Music and sports. How to remember all these? I'm glad I'm packing light as I hike up to my hotel. See, you can eat them! They'd pass through this imposing entryway and up to the religious heart of the city and the Parthenon. In the 14th century, the Knights of St. John added on to an existing Byzantine fortress here to create a residence and political headquarters for their leader, the grand master. These Mycenaean soldiers — with their yellow-ribbon moms — are a timeless off-to-war scene, repeated every generation in the 3,000 years since. Weave through narrow paths lined with flowers, and dotted with cats dozing in the sunshine. It was constructed in the fifth century BC and dedicated to the virgin goddess Athena. During the Archaic period, all the parts were there, but if it decided to walk, it would walk like a monster, stiffly with no understanding of the subtle interplay between hips and shoulders. Sure, there's nothing culturally broadening about this — in fact, the only thing broadening about all this lazy time on ship with unlimited food and drink is the effect it might have on your waistline. And then beets. They were also called the "Knights of St. John Hospitallers." Today, inviting whitewashed villages seem to crowd its dramatic ridges as if jostling to enjoy the views. Its pocket-size harbor shelters the community's fishing boats. So for more than 2,000 years, water has come out of this well. Right, we got some sardines here, grilled, and on the other side, we've got a very nice grilled calamari, also served with salad, the lemon, and the olive oil. But in around 330 BC, Athens was conquered by the Macedonians from the north. Sailing these fabled seas, I find myself drawn to the top deck. The Easter greeting here in Greece, “Kalo Pascha,” literally means “good passing” — a passing from sadness (the Crucifixion) to happiness (the Resurrection). While Rick Steves Greece covers a few islands (Hydra, Mykonos and nearby Delos, and Santorini), most travelers headed to more islands will want to supplement their Rick Steves book with a guide to the islands (we recommend Lonely Planet Greek Islands). In the 14th century the knights built the Palace of the Grand Master — an imposing residence and capital for their leader. But when the Greeks won their independence from the Ottoman Turks in the early 1800s, they chose little-but-historic Athens to be their capital. And with Dimitris, I know exactly what I'm eating. Lindos is the most beautiful town on the island. The black sand is a reminder of the island's volcanic origin. The windy roads feel like a fairground racetrack for tourists, busy with an array of easy-to-rent vehicles. With so little of the Agora still standing, this reconstruction makes it easier to imagine the sight in its original glory. He let two eagles fly from the two opposite ends of the universe and this is where they met, here in Delphi. In fact, these archaic statues were named simply kouros (meaning "boy"), or kore (meaning "girl"). Penny: Exactly. Rick: These salads look delicious. Penny: There was a priestess inside the Temple and right underneath it there was this room where she was inhaling vapors evaporating from the ground. They're clad in the traditional pleated kilt and pom-pom shoes made famous by the evzones. Until next time, keep on travelin'. Rick: So he called this basically the bellybutton of the world. With little building material on the island, it just made sense to dig into the cliffs. It’s called “Faithful Travel with Rick Steves.” (We sell it for $19.95 and donate 100 percent of the proceeds to Lutheran World Relief. In Athens, it seems all roads pass through Syntagma Square. It never recovered and was eventually abandoned. Once a complete island like its neighbors, it was a volcano that about 3,500 years ago blew its top, creating a caldera — this flooded crater. In fact, you can still feel that Turkish influence to this very day. Santorini is small, driving is fun, and traffic is sparse. It's Athens. Survey the remains of the ancient harbor: foundations of shops and homes, and hillsides littered with temple remains. The capitals, or tops of the columns, were both functional and decorative. In a few scenic minutes we're across the island. The oracle became so influential that no great leader would make a major decision without first sending emissaries to consult the oracle. Thanks for joining us. You must have cookies enabled to use the Rick Steves Travel Store. Antonis is an excellent local guide who enjoys introducing visitors to the hidden nooks and crannies of Mykonos. As is standard around here, beaches rent comfortable lounge furniture with umbrellas. While tourism dominates the economy, Mykonos still has a traditional charm thickly layered with white stucco, blue trim, and colorful bougainvillea. Golden Age sculptors shifted weight more believably, placing their statues in a contrapposto pose — that means relaxed, with hips shifted realistically and weight resting on one foot. The two main attractions — the archaeological site (officially called the "Sanctuary of Apollo") and the Archaeological Museum — are about a half-mile east of the modern town of Delphi. Penny: Correct. Visitors here can enjoy the building's fine interiors, a wide-ranging collection of artifacts, and the highlight of the entire palace: its fantastically detailed floor mosaics. This time I thought I'd take you on a little cruise. We'll start up there, at the historic, cultural, and literal high point of any trip to Athens — the Acropolis. For some 800 years, until its destruction by barbarians in AD 267, it was the hub of all commercial, political, and social life in Athens, as well as home to much of its religious life. The island of Delos was one of the most important places in the ancient Greek world, with temples honoring the birthplace of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis. The one must-see sight outside the central tourist zone is the National Archaeological Museum. Exploring the agora, it's fascinating to ponder the world of Plato and Aristotle and the age which laid the foundations for Western thinking about economics, democracy, logic, and more. Giddy-up! With the crush of the crowds, the limited time, and the scattered array of interesting sights, investing in a bus tour like this to see Santorini can make sense. They stand amid today's bustling metropolis. It's destroyed. Excursions also include scenic views from the bus, and the stress-free efficiency of getting smoothly from point to point. Being on the top deck as you approach the day's destination gives you a quiet, bird's eye view. It was still a Rick Steves’ tour…but with a plush and shady rooftop, a scholar guide (Colin Clement) and me on vacation with Anne. The palace was fortified with three walls and two moats for good reason: the ever-present Turkish threat. Subtle interplay between hips and shoulders. This time it's all Greek to me…and that's exactly why we're here. Its main street — thronged with tourists whenever there's a cruise ship in the bay — seems like little more than a long line of shops, cafés, and restaurants, all with staggering views. The town stretches away from the harbor — a maze of narrow, cobbled streets, flanked by whitewashed homes. It offers little beyond lovely sand, turquoise water, and tranquility. In this oasis of tranquility, nestled beneath the walls of the Acropolis, the intensity of Athens seems miles away. Of its hundreds of islands, we'll visit three: Santorini, Mykonos, and Rhodes. Dimitris: Well, we have here a Greek salad and a Santorini salad. Get the most out of every day and dollar with Rick Steves Greece & Turkey guidebooks, Snapshot guides and Pocket travel guides The knights then retreated hundreds of miles west to the island of Malta, where they built an even more fortified headquarters. I like to hang out in the windy doorway. Of Santorini's many beaches, Kamari is one of the best. While less balanced and composed, it was a more individualistic age — with more exuberant and emotional art. Antonis: …one of the 200 wells and cisterns in the city, fresh, drinkable water from the rich aquifer underneath us, and it was enough to supply the 30,000 people at the peak of the flourish of the city. Crowds would gather in shady porticos like this to shop, socialize, or listen to the great philosophers of the age. The homes of sea captains, whose wealth came from trade, are now fancy hotels and gift shops. Today tourists zigzag up the ancient Sacred Way to the Temple of Apollo. already booked 2022 tour Greece with Viking and need to combine with Rick Steves Greece tour. Twelve new episodes include Portugal (Lisbon and the country's heartland), the … Wealthy shipping merchants built this row of fine mansions with brightly painted wooden balconies that seem to rise out of the sea. At the top of town, the humble Taverna Leonidas has been around so long it doesn't need a sign. And apart from coming here to consult the oracle, the other reason was also because, like in Olympia they had the Olympic Games, here in Delphi we had the Pythian Games. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. But for most travelers, the agora is more than an architectural review. Presided over by hotels that run bars for young beachgoers, the Paradise action is nonstop. In fact, Socrates spent much of his life right here preaching the virtues of "nothing in excess," and urging those around him to "know thyself.". This Colossus of Rhodes was one of the "seven wonders" of the ancient world. To them it was the embodiment of the order found in nature. Observe the peaceful rhythm of daily life. Greek architecture evolved in stages. It's fast but less scenic, as the passengers are stuck inside. Walk once around fast for a time-lapse effect, then go around again for a closer look. Its wild, mountainous landscape has hosted the interminable rise and fall of cultures which makes for fascinating sightseeing today. You'll see the rise and fall of Greece's various civilizations: the Minoans, the Mycenaeans, those of Archaic Greece, the Classical Age, and Alexander the Great, and the Romans who came from the west. An hour's drive south takes us to the island's other popular attraction. Parnassos, was not a city. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | This place has been known as Constitution Square or Syntagma Square ever since. From Athens, we sail into the Aegean Sea. The evolution of Greek art from stiff to realistic to emotional would be echoed by Europe 2,000 years later: from stiff Gothic to realistic Renaissance, to emotional Baroque. Just a few years ago, this street was a car-clogged mess. Now, it's a hit with everyone. The country's leading families built mansions here to be close to the king. As the sun goes down, it's busy with locals and visitors alike. Approaching an exotic and fabled island like Santorini — as the moon sets and the sun rises, just kissing the lip of the breathtaking cliffs — is worth getting up for. He recently explored Greece's most important archaeological locations for his show, "Rick Steves' Europe," and acquainted us with the country's profound heritage. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. And recently, the city has curbed pollution, cleaned up and pedestrianized the streets, spiffed up the museums, and invested in one of Europe's better public transit systems. I cap my visit by climbing to the summit of the island. For some 800 years, starting in the sixth century BC, this was the hub of commercial, political, and social life. Punctuated by romantic nights at sea, our itinerary promises plenty of unforgettable sightseeing. About five centuries before Christ, Athens was the center of the Western world. Typical of Greek island resort beaches, it's lined with rentable lounge chairs and a strip of seafood restaurants. Once again, when it was first pedestrianized merchants were upset. There's an easy blend of work-a-day commerce, fancy yachts, and lazy tourists on island time. This stunning bronze statue, cast in 460 BC, depicts the mighty god of the sea about to hurl his trident. People would journey here from all over the known world to seek wisdom from the gods on vital affairs of state. Rick: So people from all over the Greek-speaking world came here. I'm Rick Steves. This, rather than the Parthenon, was the culmination of the Panatheniac Procession. While cruisers may miss evenings in port, what they do get to experience are the evenings at sea — whether it's a dance party by the pool or quietly enjoying the full moon and anticipating new adventures tomorrow. Guide: Those two are the Kameni Islands. Five mills still stand, perfectly positioned to catch the prevailing breeze. And the once-menacing shores of Turkey are just 12 miles away. The sheer beauty of the statues, vases, and paintings helps bring the country's dusty ruins to life. Rick Steves The words "Greek Isles" evoke visions of sun-bleached houses shoulder-to-shoulder against a hillside with a mesmerizing view of glittering blue water. Welcome aboard! Today these mansions have been refitted as restaurants and bars for tourists enjoying fresh fish and romantic views. Culture thrived here, enough to keep this theater — which could seat 6,000 — busy. With Rick Steves. Huge granite cannon balls littering the grounds are a reminder of why it was said that when the Turks attacked, cannon balls rained down on the city. And it retains a certain hip cachet. So we've got the theater, we've got the stadium…. Mykonos is another small island with a small port inundated by cruise-ship crowds. 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